How to Refinish a Bathtub: The Complete DIY Guide

Learning how to refinish a bathtub is one of the most valuable DIY skills a homeowner can pick up. It’s also one of the most cost-effective bathroom upgrades you can make. With the right kit and a free weekend, you can take a stained, chipped, or dated tub and make it look brand new. It costs a fraction of what full replacement would run you.

This guide walks through the entire process from start to finish, based on more than 50 years of hands-on refinishing experience. Whether you're tackling your first project or looking to sharpen your technique, you'll find everything you need here.

What You'll Need

A Bathworks Roll-On Refinishing Kit includes the coating materials and the tools required for application and prep. Here's the full list:

Included in the Roll-On Kit

• Part A – Refinishing Paint (16 oz.)
• Part B – Hardener (4 oz.)
• Liquid Primer (2 oz.)
• TSP Powder Cleanser
• 4" Foam Roller on 9" Handle
• 2" Foam Brush
• 2" Yellow Sponge Roller
• 12" Paint Tray
• Mixing Container
• Stir Stick
• 120-Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
• Latex Gloves
• Step-by-step Instructions

Some kits may also include Non-Slip Additive (2 oz.) — see Step 8 below for application details.

Recommended Supplies (Not Included)

• Respirator (strongly recommended during all coating steps)
• Protective eyewear
• Blue painter's tape
• Protective surface coverings (drop cloth or plastic sheeting)
• Ajax® or Comet® cleanser
• Scotch-Brite® pad or sponge
• Single-edge razor blade or scraper
• Hair dryer or wet-vacuum
• Ventilator fan
• Paper towels
• Garbage bag
• 100% silicone caulk (if removing old caulk)
• Bathworks EZ-Etch Kit — strongly recommended for cast iron, steel, and ceramic fixtures

Before You Start: How to Refinish a Bathtub the Right Way

A successful refinishing job is 80% preparation. The coating itself goes on quickly — it's the cleaning, scraping, sanding, and etching that determine whether your finish lasts one year or ten.

Plan for about 3–4 hours of total work time. The tub should not be used for at least 24 hours after application (12 hours if using the Quick-Dry Refinishing Kit). Pick a day when the bathroom can be out of commission.

Make sure there is positive air flow and adequate ventilation in the work area at all times. Open windows, run an exhaust fan, and keep the bathroom door open during application and drying.

Read through all the instructions before starting your project. Visit bath-works.net to find helpful project tutorial videos.

Step 1: Clear and Deep Clean the Surface

This is the most important step in how to refinish a bathtub — skip it or rush it and the coating won’t adhere properly. Remove all personal items from the tub. Scrub the entire surface with Ajax®, Comet®, or a similar abrasive cleanser — use steel wool if needed. Pay extra attention to areas with heavy soap buildup, around the drain, and under the soap tray.

Any soap residue left behind will prevent the coating from bonding and cause failure — this is the single most common cause of adhesion problems in DIY refinishing projects.

Optional: Use a razor blade or sharp scraper to remove the existing caulk around the tub and walls. Not required, but recommended. You'll reapply fresh silicone caulk after the refinished surface is dry.

Step 2: Scrape Down the Surface

Using a single-edge razor blade, scrape down the entire tub surface thoroughly. Focus on areas under the soap tray and around the drain. Wipe all scrapings and debris into a garbage bag — keep this bag nearby for the rest of the project.

Note: Never place tools or scrapers directly on unprotected surfaces such as toilet seat covers, countertops, or linoleum floors.

Step 3: Scrub with TSP Cleanser

Wear latex gloves and protective eyewear. Using the TSP powder cleanser provided in the kit (or Comet®/Ajax®), mix with enough warm water to make a paste and apply it over the entire surface. Scrub the tub and walls thoroughly with a Scotch-Brite® pad or sponge.

This second cleaning pass with the TSP paste goes beyond the initial scrub — it chemically strips remaining residue and prepares the surface for sanding.

Step 4: Sand the Surface

Rinse the surface well after scrubbing. While the tub is still damp, sand the entire surface evenly using the 120-grit wet/dry sandpaper included in the kit. You're not trying to remove material — you're creating a uniform surface profile that gives the coating something to grip.

Sand in a consistent pattern, working from top to bottom. Don't skip the curves around the drain or the flat areas of the deck. Rinse well after sanding.

Step 5: Apply EZ-Etch (If Applicable)

If your tub is cast iron, steel, or ceramic, apply Bathworks EZ-Etch according to its included instructions. EZ-Etch chemically etches the surface to create a strong mechanical bond for the coating. This is separate from the TSP cleanser included in the kit — EZ-Etch is specifically designed for hard, non-porous surfaces.

If your tub is acrylic, fiberglass, or plastic, skip this step — the sandpaper prep from Step 4 is sufficient for these materials.

Step 6: Dry and Mask the Surface

Place a glove or plastic bag over the tub spout and showerhead to ensure water does not drip onto the surface during resurfacing. Using a blow dryer or wet-vacuum, blow water out of the drain and wall areas.

This is critical. The surface must be completely dry — especially at the drain. Any moisture present during resurfacing may result in product and bonding failure.

Once completely dry, use blue painter's tape to mask off the walls around the tub and the tub drain. Lay down protective coverings on the bathroom floor. Remove the drain stopper and overflow plate if possible — or mask them carefully with tape.

Step 7: Repair Chips and Cracks (If Needed)

Inspect the surface for any chips, cracks, or gouges. These need to be filled before you coat — the refinishing material isn't thick enough to bridge gaps on its own. Any repairs should be completed before the tack cloth step.

Use a Bathworks Chip Repair Kit to fill imperfections. It's a two-part rigid speed filler that works on cast iron, steel, plastic, and fiberglass. Apply, let it cure fully, then sand smooth.

After repairs are done, use a tack cloth and rub it over the entire surface to remove all remaining foreign materials. The tub surface should now be smooth, completely clean, and ready to be coated.

Step 8: Apply Liquid Primer

From this point forward, use proper ventilation, gloves, and protective eyewear. Use all paint products with caution.

Empty the liquid primer onto a paper towel and apply it to all surfaces you plan to refinish, ensuring full coverage. Work in even, overlapping strokes. Dispose of the paper towel in a closed plastic bag to minimize fumes.

Allow the primer to dry on the surface for 5 minutes before moving to the next step.

Step 9: Mix the Coating

Pour Part A (Refinishing Paint) and Part B (Hardener) into the provided mixing container. Stir thoroughly with the stir stick for a full 3 minutes until completely dispersed. Be careful not to create air bubbles while mixing. Let the mixed paint sit for 5 minutes after stirring.

The mix ratio is 4:1 (4 parts A to 1 part B). Once mixed, you have a pot life of approximately 2–3 hours at 70°F. This is the window you have to complete the project before the mixed paint becomes unusable.

Optional: Non-Slip Additive

If your kit includes Non-Slip Additive, fill the additive container about 3/4 full with the mixed paint. Mix well, then pour the mixture into the center of the tub floor. Using the 2" sponge roller, roll an oval or rectangular shape in the desired non-slip area. Allow it to set for 10 minutes before continuing with the full coating application. You can also purchase Non-Slip Additive separately.

Step 10: Apply the Coating

Pour the mixed paint into the paint tray, making sure there is protective surface covering underneath and the tray is in good condition.

Start with the 2" foam brush — use a dab application technique to paint around all edges and areas where the roller won't reach. Then switch to the 4" foam roller and follow this sequence:

1. Roll the inside walls of the tub
2. Roll the bottom and up the curves
3. Roll the top edge of the tub
4. Roll the front of the tub
5. Roll the top deck surface last

Use a fair amount of paint material while rolling. Too much will result in runs and sags. Too little will lead to a "dry-roll" result and can cause product failure. The surface should look wet and glossy as you go — the coating is self-leveling, so minor roller marks will smooth out as it sets.

A second coat may be applied right away following the same rolling pattern. If you apply a second coat, be careful not to lean on wet surfaces while working.

Step 11: Remove Tape and Let It Cure

After allowing the coating to set for 45 minutes, carefully remove the painter's tape by pulling at a 45-degree angle.

Allow the refinished surface to dry for 24 hours before use (12 hours if using the Quick-Dry Refinishing Kit).

If caulk was removed before resurfacing, reapply using 100% silicone caulk once the surface is dry. Allow the caulk to dry, then rinse the refinished surface with warm water before first use.

Dispose of all unused materials and debris immediately after completing the project. Obey all state, city, and town codes for proper paint disposal.

Quick-Dry Option

If 24 hours of downtime doesn't work for your schedule, the Bathworks Quick-Dry Roll-On Kit uses a faster-curing formula with light use possible in 12 hours. Same process, same results — just faster.

Tips From the Pros

After years of helping customers figure out how to refinish a bathtub, we’ve gathered the most common pro tips below.

• Temperature matters. The ideal application temperature is 65–85°F. Colder temps slow curing; hotter temps speed it up and shorten your working time. Pot life is rated at approximately 2–3 hours at 70°F.
• Don't rush the prep. Professional refinishers spend more time on prep than on the actual coating. If the surface isn't perfectly clean, scraped, sanded, and (where applicable) etched, the finish won't hold.
• Dry the surface completely. This is one of the most important steps. Moisture trapped at the drain or in wall corners is a leading cause of bonding failure. Use a blow dryer or wet-vac. Don't rely on air drying alone.
• Brush edges first, then roll. Use the 2" foam brush with a dab technique on all edges and tight spots. Then switch to the 4" foam roller for the main surfaces. This ensures complete coverage without roller misses in corners.
• Roll in one direction. For the smoothest finish, maintain a consistent rolling direction on each surface. Avoid going back over areas that have started to tack up.
• Respect the cure time. 24 hours minimum before any use. The coating continues to harden after application — early exposure to water is the most common reason for premature wear.

What About Tile, Sinks, Countertops, and Showers?

The same principles that apply to how to refinish a bathtub apply to tile surrounds, sinks, shower stalls, and countertops — including Formica surfaces. The key difference is surface area. For larger projects like a tub-and-tile combo, you'll likely need a second kit to ensure full coverage.

For tile, ceramic, cast iron, and steel surfaces, always use the Bathworks EZ-Etch Kit during prep for proper adhesion.

For sinks specifically, the Bathworks Sink Refinishing Kit is sized appropriately for smaller surfaces.

After the Refinish: Care and Maintenance

Now that you know how to refinish a bathtub, taking care of your new surface is straightforward. A refinished surface is durable, but it does require some basic care to stay looking its best. Treat it as if it were a brand new bathtub:

• Remove excess water and wipe dry after each use
• Always make sure faucets are tightly closed and the shower pipe is drained after each use
• Do not rest soap bottles, spray cans, or wet clothes on the surface for extended periods
• Never use hair dye in a refinished bathtub
• If bathing pets, always place a towel down to prevent scratches
• Clean at least once a week with a liquid non-abrasive cleaner — Scrubbing Bubbles®, 409®, or Fantastic® are recommended
• Never use bleach or abrasive cleaners (Ajax®, Comet®, or Soft Scrub®) on the refinished surface
• Do not use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser® — it is a micro-abrasive sponge that will damage the coating over time
• If using the non-slip system, Soft Scrub® may be used on the non-slip area only if needed
• Do not use suction-cup bath mats or stick-on strips — they will cause failures of the refinished coating. If the surface is slippery, use a non-suctioned bath mat or a towel. Pick it up after each use. Do not hang the mat or towel over the tub
• Use the Bathworks Polishing and Cleaning Kit periodically to maintain the gloss

For more detailed care instructions, visit our Care Tips page.

That’s how to refinish a bathtub from start to finish. The process takes a weekend, costs under $150, and gives you a showroom-quality finish that lasts for years.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to refinish a bathtub yourself?

A complete Bathworks Roll-On Refinishing Kit costs $79.95 and includes the coating, hardener, primer, TSP cleanser, rollers, foam brush, paint tray, mixing container, sandpaper, and gloves. That’s everything you need to refinish one standard bathtub. Add a respirator if you don't already own one, and the EZ-Etch Kit ($14.99) if your tub is cast iron, steel, or ceramic. Total out-of-pocket is typically under $120 — compared to $3,000–$8,000 for a full tub replacement.

How long does a refinished bathtub last?

With proper surface preparation and care, a Bathworks refinished surface can last many years. The most important factors are thorough prep work before application and gentle cleaning habits afterward. Our professional refinishing team uses the same formula in the field, refinishing thousands of tubs annually with lasting results.

Can I refinish a bathtub myself with no experience?

Yes. How to refinish a bathtub isn’t complicated once you break it down into steps. Bathworks kits are specifically designed for DIY homeowners. The process is straightforward — clean, scrape, sand, etch (if needed), dry, mask, prime, mix, apply, and cure. If you can paint a wall with a roller, you can refinish a bathtub. Our how-to videos walk through every step visually.

What's the difference between epoxy and resin refinishing kits?

Most budget refinishing kits use epoxy-based paints, which tend to yellow, chip, and peel within a year or two. Bathworks uses a two-part resin system that cures to a harder, more durable finish with better gloss retention and chemical resistance. It's the same type of coating used by professional refinishers — not a paint, but a true surface coating.

Do I need to remove the old finish before refinishing?

If the existing finish is the original factory porcelain or enamel and it's in reasonable shape (no peeling), you do not need to remove it. Just clean, scrape, sand, and etch as described above. If there's a previous refinishing coating from another brand that's peeling or damaged, that should be fully removed before applying Bathworks. You can recoat over a previous Bathworks finish as long as it's cleaned, dried, and lightly sanded.

Is bathtub refinishing safe?

Yes, when proper safety precautions are followed. Wear a respirator, protective eyewear, and gloves during application. Ensure the workspace is well-ventilated with open windows and an exhaust fan running at all times. Children, pets, and pregnant women should avoid the area until the coating is fully dry and the room is ventilated — typically 24 hours. Full safety details are available on our Safety Information page.

How long do I have to work with the mixed coating?

Once Part A and Part B are mixed, you have approximately 2–3 hours of pot life at 70°F to complete your application. Higher temperatures will shorten this window, so work efficiently but don't rush — you have plenty of time for a standard tub.